My second amaryllis is blooming beautifully now. But as you can see, it has the same type of problem that this one had, although not as severe.
Interestingly, this rust problem didn't show up on the leaves at all, and it certainly didn't affect the blooms!
Aren't they just gorgeous?
Here's what the flower stalk looks like at the base, though. The flower stalks are always hollow, but this one is split for several inches. It almost looks like it was burned.
I was playing with some photo editing, and here's what I ended up with. It looks like it's red hot inside that stalk! :)
My third amaryllis still has no sign of a flower stalk, so I assume it's not going to bloom this year. The first one that had the deformed stalk has another stalk shooting up, and it looks perfectly fine with no sign of rust or deformity at all!
3 comments:
When I was a student I jobbed at a flower shop (cut flowers only). Amaryllis break very easily in general. I would try to bind it to a stick. With cut amaryllis you can put a stick inside so it doesn't show. Also you can put transparent tape (the same stuff you use for gift wrapping) around the damaged part to prevent it from splitting even further.
Saw this - Occasionally, amaryllis will be attacked by a fungus disease called "red blotch" or "leaf scorch" (Stagonospora curtisii). It usually occurs on shaded plants that are frequently irrigated. Red spots appear on the flower stalks and leaves and enlarge, elongate and become sunken. Infected leaves and flower stems are characteristically deformed or bent at the point of attack. The flower stalks of heavily infested plants may break over at an infected area or wither and dry up before the flowers are produced.
The fungus and spores of red blotch are carried on the bulbs. Consequently, the leaves and flower stalks which push up from infected bulbs may become diseased. When purchasing or dividing amaryllis, avoid bulbs with dark reddish-brown spots or large rotted areas. Keep in mind that any injury to amaryllis tissue usually produces a red pigment, so red streaks, specks or irregular patterns are not always indicative of red blotch, which usually shows definite margins and outlines.
Red blotch is difficult to control; disease-infected bulbs, plants or seedlings should be destroyed. Prevent disease by using sterilized potting soil when propagating and providing plants with the right growing conditions. Fungicides (like thiophanate methyl) can be applied, but they are expensive and hard to find. A hot water treatment is sometimes suggested. Dig up the bulbs, remove excess soil and soak them for 30 minutes in water kept at a constant temperature of 104-114°F (40-46°C).
From this site -
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep060
But I'm no gardener! Good luck!
Thanks, ladies, for the suggestions... I appreciate your helpful ideas!
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